Arched Quirk Bead

		More on Quirk Beading.
			In the current project that I'm working on the face frame cabinets called for a "quirk bead". This unto itself wasn't a big problem because there are a few ways to make them. This is the way I made them. That really wasn't the challenge either, it was making two sections of curved beading for two wine racks. The first thing I did was to cut two sections of beading a couple of inches longer then I needed. I soaked them in some hot water for about 20 minutes, this made them a bit more pliable. I then made a two point jig to "flex" the beading. I left it in the jig over night. The sole purpose for doing this was to make it easier to apply to the arched head section of the wine racks.
			The next step was to make a jig to help hold the bead in place at its proper position so I could cut the miter on it. There was no need whatsoever to try and "calculate" the miter angle. I used 3/4 MDF to make the jig. I first traced the curved head section and about 12" down each side. I then laid out the miter joints on each side of the head section. Then cut the piece at the spring line persevering the head section. This gave me two piece at this point.
			Using my bandsaw I rough cut the curve on the head section of the jig. I cut to 1/16" of the layout line. I then used my spindle sander to smooth the curve up to the layout line.
			The head section shown against the square section.
			I then ripped the square section into two legs.
			I then cut the head section miter on the radial arm saw. I just simply "eyed" up the cut and had at it. This photo shows the left side being cut.
			Same side different picture angle .
			I cut the miter on the legs using my table saw and a miter gauge.
			This photo shows the completed three pieces for the jig. You can also see the two pieces of beading being bent in the background.
			Then using a piece of 3/4 plywood I fastened the three pieces to the board using some 1-1/4" brad nails. The jig works so you can cut the head beading and then the left and right side legs.
			This photo beings to show just how the jig works. Using a curved crawl and some common clamps, I'm able to bend the bead right to the jig. This puts the bead in the right position to cut the miter.
			Using a backsaw I make the miter cuts on each side of the curved bead.
			A close up shot of the miter cut.
			After applying some glue to the backside of the bead I'm able to press it into position against the head section of the face frame. Using the crawl once again and some common clamps I can easily secure it till the glue dries.