Drywall installation:

Although you do not need many tools for drywall installation it is backbreaking work. Most people shy away from it leaving it to the professionals. But, if you are one of those people who must do it, you are going to need to invest in a few tools.

1.Some tools that you will need to do this job included  a pencil to make with, a chalkline to snap long straight lines a compass for drawing circles  an awl and a keyhole saw . A specialized tool called a "Rotozip" can be used also. A utility knife  and tape measure.

2. A good quality screw gun that is made for drywall installation,  this gun usually has an rpm rating of 4000. These guns are supplied with a cone shaped tip that is used to "set" the depth of the head of a drywall screw.

        

3. A drywall hammer,  in case you prefer to use nails, also the ax like head is good for cutting lath.

4.A good quality tool belt   in which you can hold other necessary tools such as a tape measure, drywall saw which is similar to a keyhole saw, compass for making circles a chalk line and a place for nails and/or screws.             .

6. A surform rasp to clean edges of straight cuts, it is considered a block plane for drywall.

7. And last but not least a good strong body or two.

Ready to Hang:

 Measure off wall 48 1/8 inches on each end and snap a chalk line. This is done to ensure that the first row of drywall is straight and that your seams are tight and to give you a better chance of insuring you a straight cut on the opposite side of the ceiling.

 Installing your first sheet, this is a two person job. Measure across the joists to the farthest point where the drywall will end up on a joist Cut to size if needed. Make sure the sheet is against the wall along its width, if you needed to cut it, put the cut side against the wall. Put it even with chalk line on the long side. Once you have established this proceed to nail or screw the drywall in with the proper nails or screws made specifically for drywall. If using screws it is best to space them about a foot apart in the middle of the board and 6 to 8 inches at the ends. If you are using nails you should space them 8 inches apart in the middle of the board and 6 to 8 inches at the ends. Continue the installation along the run.

Then the next row you should start with half a board ending up on the closest beam. This is so the seams on this run do not line up. This is referred to as staggering which allows for a better job it ties the joists in, and also makes it a lot easier to tape the joints . There will be no long seams along the width of the drywall. Then continue installing drywall in this manner. Once you have completed the ceiling it is time to start the walls.

In doing the walls it is best to run the drywall along its length and not stand it straight up and down. Starting the first board by lifting it up until it is tight up against the ceiling. Then continue installation along the run. As with the ceiling make sure that you stagger the seams when you start the bottom run.
Corner beads : Before you start taping you must install the corner beads if you have any outside corners. These would also be needed if you have any soffits or if you had to box around anything.

Cut corner bead to size with a pair of aviation shears. Nail, screw or use a crimping tool  making sure that the bead goes on straight and if you were to put a straight edge against the wall there would be a slight depression between the wall and the front edge of the bead. This will be filled with compound later on.

Taping

Taping is done with a material called joint compound which can be purchased when you buy the drywall. You will also need the paper tape, also available where you by the drywall to cover the seams . When taping it is best to work in an organized manner. This will make the job go a lot faster and will also make the job a lot neater. The seams are referred to in specific terms. On the walls and ceiling you have your butt seams where the 4 foot ends of the drywall meet, they are often referred to as cross straps or uprights if referring to the wall. This is because it runs perpendicular to the long seam that runs horizontally which is referred to as the strap. The caps are the corners where the ceiling and wall meet and run horizontally. The angles are the corners that run vertically up the wall. The proper order to apply the tape or the first coat would be in the following order.
1. Cross straps or uprights
2. Straps
3. Caps and angles
With this basic information you are ready to tape. When applying the first coat, also referred to as the rough coat, you must spread the joint compound on the seam with a 6 inch broad knife. Then apply the tape to the seam. Once you have applied the tape, you have to embed it into the compound. Do this by holding your knife at almost a 90 degree angle to the wall and squeeze the tape into the compound along the seam. Then wipe off the excess compound on the edges of the seam with your knife. The same procedure is done for all the seams. For the caps and angels spread compound on each side. When applying the tape,  you must crease it in the middle so it will fit in the corner. After that,  apply same procedure as doing a regular seam.

 Once the seams in the room are done you can do the corner beads if any. With your 8 inch broad knife apply the compound over the corner bead.  Then feather the edge by holding your knife askew and at a slight angle to the wall and run the knife along the edge.  This will clean the edge and also bring the excess compound in towards the bead. Once that is done hold your broad knife almost flat to wall with a slight angle and with moderate pressure run it along the joint compound. This should leave a somewhat smooth surface, with practice it will become easier to achieve a smooth finish, but don't worry because you can sand off any imperfections after the compound dries. This is more advisable because there is always going to be imperfections. The object here is to fill the bead to make it flat with the wall, you are going to need two more coats anyway. After 24 hours the compound should be dry and ready for the second coat. Spackle all screw holes by putting on the compound and wiping it off with you 6 inch knife.

Before you apply the second coat sand any high spots that may get in the way of you achieving a
smooth surface. When applying the second coat you should use the same technique as explained before in doing the corner bead only you will need to feather two edges instead of one. Then run you knife down the middle of the seam, this technique works best with straps. An 8, 10 or 12 inch knife will work for this. For cross strap you will want to do what is known as double knifing. This is when you apply the joint compound on both sides of the tape working from the center of the joint to the side as opposed to running the compound down the middle of the seam. This will cover the tape better then going down the middle. Sometimes these seams are crowned and not flat. This will leave a line of compound down the middle, but that is ok you can sand it when it dries you can get the best results with this technique with a 10 or 12 inch broad knife.  For the beginner it is best to do caps and angles one side at a time for you will achieve better results.

Run the compound down one side of the corner, feather the edge and then run the knife along the corner in the same fashion as the other seams. When it is dry do the other side. Best to do caps and angles with 6 inch knife. Do outside corners in the same fashion as the first coat only now using a 10 inch broad knife, spackle all screw holes. Wait a day to dry. After which you are ready for the third and final coat. Begin by sanding any lines or high spots and rough edges left by second coat. After this is done you are ready. Start by thinning out the joint compound with a little water. I usually use 1 coffee cup to a 5 gallon pail. This also depends on the condition of the compound when you buy it. The third coat a.k.a polish is basically a wipe coat. You apply the compound to the seam. Bringing it a little past the previous coat on each side. Then holding your knife a little more than 45 degrees but less then 90 start taking the compound off. This will fill all the scratches from sanding and any dings in the compound, leaving a smooth surface. With a light sanding it shall be ready for paint.

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